Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price

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$405.00 - 805.00 / m.t.
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China main port
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TT or LC
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50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month
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 Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price

1. Description of  Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price:

Hot-dip aluzinc steel structure is composed of aluminum-zinc alloy, consisting of 55% aluminum, 43% zinc and 2% at 600 silicon solidification temperature and composition, the entire structure is made of aluminum - iron - silicon - zinc, to form a dense quaternary crystals an alloy.

Hot-dip aluzinc steel has many excellent features: strong corrosion resistance, is three times the pure galvanized sheet; zinc surface with beautiful flowers, can be used as a building outside board.

Applications of hot-dip aluzinc steel:

1)Building: roof, walls, garages, soundproof walls, pipes and modular housing.

2)Automotive: muffler, exhaust pipes, wiper accessories, fuel tank, truck boxes, etc.

3)Appliances: refrigerator back, gas stove, air conditioners, microwave oven, LCD frame, 4)CRT-proof band, LED backlight, electrical cabinets, etc.

5)Farm: barn, sheds, silos, piping and other greenhouse.

 

2.Main Features of the Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel:

Excellent corrosion resistance

High temperature oxidation resistance

Good manufacturability                                                              

Cost-effective

3.Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Images

Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price

Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price

Best Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Building Roof Walls with Good price

 

4.Hot-dip Aluzinc Steel Specification

 

AVAILABLE SPECIFICATION

 

HOT-DIP ALUZINC STEEL COILS

THICKNESS

0.16mm-3.5mm

WIDTH

1250mm MAX

COATING MASS

30g/ m2-185 g/ m2

SPANGLE

Regular Spangle, Minimized Spangle, Zero Spangle

SURFACE TREATMENT

Chromated / non-chromated, Oiled / non-oiled, Anti Finger Print

COIL INNER DIAMETER

508mm or 610mm

 

 

 5.FAQ of Our Steel

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:

1.What advantages does your company have?

Cement : Annual capacity of 400 million tons, No. 1 in the world

Composite Materials — Rotor Blade: Annual production capacity of 15,000 pieces, No.1 in China, Top3 worldwide

Commercial concrete: Annual capacity of 0.35 billion cubic meters, No. 1 in the world.

Refractory Material: Annual capacity of 40,000 tons casting refractory, No.1 in the world.

 

2.What advantages do your products have?

Firstly, our base material is of high quality, Their performance is in smooth and flat surfaceno edge wave good flexibility.

Secondly, high quality zinc ingoats, 97.5% zinc,1.5% silicon,1% others, the same zinc coating measured by metal coating thickness or by zinc weight

Thirdly, high precision: Tolerance strictly according to ASTM or JISG standard even more rigid.

We have full stes of testing equipment(for t best, cupule,chromatism,salt spray resistance, etc) and professional engineers.

 

 

 

Q:Ive been playing with my ping i3 graphite irons for 6 years now and some days i can hit it and some days i cant. Then i tried out my friends irons the other day and he had steel and i was hitting the ball anywhere i wanted it to go..Is that a fluke or is steel irons just better than shaft? I was thinking about trading my graphites for steel, is that a good idea??
Graphite is a lot lighter and will allow you to generate more swing speed and probably greater distance. I hit my graphite clubs about one club longer than my steel shafts. But, my steel shafts are far more accurate. I find I hit a lot more greens in regulation using my steel shafted irons than I do with my graphites. Since accuracy is far more important than distance for most people, I choose the steel shafted irons most of the time. You will NEVER see a professional or a low handicapper using graphite irons for this reason.
Q:I really need help what is the origon of stainless steel?
Stainless steel is regular steel. They just remove most of the carbon out of it. Carbon it the reactive element within the steel that makes it rust, tarnish, etc...
Q:What's the difference between hot rolled coil and hot-rolled carbon thin steel coil?
The difference between hot rolled primary and hot-rolled carbon thin steel coils is that they include carbon steel rolls and low alloy steel coils.
Q:Also, what is the top best slow cooker that is 100% stainless steel? Thank you!
You do not want 100% stainless steel cookware, because it's a poor conductor of heat. All high quality stainless cookware is layered with stainless steel only on the exterior and interior surfaces, while having at least an internal heat spreading core of aluminum or copper. Not all stainless steel is sufficiently ferrous (magnetic) to work with electric inductive cooktops, so some stainless cookware adds an additional layer of ferrous steel in addition to the thermal cores. You also wouldn't want a slow cooker that's 100% stainless steel, because the uneven heating would cause food to burn more quickly. They are usually made of ceramic stoneware for a reason, even heating. Besides, a stainless pressure cooker (with alum/copper) core can in less than an hour everything a slow cooker does in 3+ hours, with better flavor, color, and nutritional content. By the way, the Prestige stainless cookware isn't 100% stainless, of course, and that's a GOOD thing.
Q:The strip tower height
Defects: cold-rolled steel sheet (coil)
Q:I moved into a house which has a steel front door.When I touch the door it feels very cold to the touch in the winter.There is a storm door also and the weather stripping looks good.Cold air from the door is entering the lower level.The house is about 20 yrs old.
Not all steel doors are. Its about 20* where i am and my steel door feel somewhat cold, but not very cold. Yours could not be? If you take the lock off the door and look inside the hole where the lock was you should see insulation inside your door.
Q:melting point, as compare to stainless steel
Be *real cautious* using HCL round stainless. A lowering acid like HCL will wreck down the oxide layer on the stainless, and corrosion will proceed. So far as i do know, there is not any scale down level at which HCL will not attack the skin oxide, however at very low concentrations maybe somewhat rust/pitting/corrosion is not going to be a main issue. Oxidizing acids like nitric, and to a couple measure sulfuric, will passivate stainless under the right conditions. But on simple, mild steels, corrosion will proceed to form FeCl and FeSO4 corrosion merchandise. The corrosion will haven't any outcomes on tensile, hardness or affect until ample fabric has been eliminated via corrosion to make a measurable change. Hydrogen embrittlement is a likelihood if there's constant anxiety, and hydrogen is advanced in corrosion. Whether or not it is a challenge would rely on the drawback.
Q:I am trying to clean up a stainless steel back splash and some kitchen appliances that have brown spots that look like rust spots. I was able to remove most of them with stainless steel cleaner but does anyone know any tricks?
Contrary okorder /
Q:I wrote in my assignment that mild steel has a high carbon content (4%).This is why it has its strong and rigid properties.. is this correct?
Bazza is heading in the right route yet time fogs the remember for us all. cut back small try samples off the inventory bar say pound coin thickness. warmth cherry purple and quick quench in water. The intense carbon metallic will be hardened so puzzling to scratch even as gentle scratches genuinely utilising a drill element or hacksaw blade. That warmth treatment will go away the metallic in its toughest maximum brittle state so will carry an edge yet snap like a carrot. So having hardened your merchandise it can be tempered to get rid of a few hardness and presented toughness. So the compromise is difficult adequate to carry the edge yet difficult adequate to deflect sensibly without fracture. Swot up on mood colors/warmth treatment and practice on scrap. an exciting litte exercising i have used with apprentices contained in the previous is to take an old document and anneal (melt) it so it drills or takes a said cut back genuinely then re harden it so it files back. The tang will be got here upon harder than the blade though it is the same metallic. note the tang will be bent without snapping. For practice you are able to harden the tang so it snaps common. in simple terms by how scrap chilly chisels, drill bits, files etc are in simple terms the metallic you want and recycleable by forging and warm temperature teatment. i think a Samurai second drawing close!!!!! sturdy success
Q:Hi All,I was wanting to know,on the quality bikes such as Trek,Giant etc is the aluminum frames as strong as the steel frame bikes? I have heard conflicting reports on this,so thought I would ask here for more input.Thanks!
I wouldn't worry about strength so much. I have never heard of anyone breaking a aluminum frame. One difference to consider is stiffness. A aluminum frame bike seems to be more stiff of a ride than steel ( talking chrome molly), stiffness has good and bad points depending on how you plan to ride.

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