Hot Rolled Steel Coil-SAE1006 in Good Quality in CNBM

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
500000 m.t./month
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Description: 

Hot-Rolled Steel Sheets and Coils are applied to a wide range of uses such as automobile, electrical appliance, machinery manufacturing, container manufacturing, shipbuilding, bridge, pipeline, and receive high acclaim from our customers for its excellent quality.

Specification:

Product:

Hot   Rolled Steel Coils/Sheets

Material:

Q195,Q235,A36,SS400,S235JR,Q345,ST37-2, CCSB etc

Standard   :

JIS   G3002 GB/T251B

Technique:

hot   rolled

Thickness

1.2mm   to 200mm

Tolerance   of thickness:

:+/-0.03mm

Width:

750mm-2000mm

Tolerance   of width:

:+/-5.00mm   (aiming to +/-2.00mm)

Normal   width:

914mm,   1000mm, 1200mm, 1219mm, 1250mm,1500mm

Length:

According   to requirement

Coil   ID:

508mm-610mm

Coil   Weight:

10-25   Metric Tons

Surface:

Black,   Chromate, fingerprint resistant treatment, slight oiled or non-oiled, dry

Port   of Loading:

Tianjin/Shanghai   port

Packaging   Details:

Standard   export packing or according to the clients required

Delivery   Time

Within   30 days after received 30% deposit or workable L/C

Payment   Terms:

L/C,T/T



Characteristic:

Our products enjoy an excellent reputation and have been exported to Europe, South-America, the Middle-East, Southeast-Asia, Africa and Russia etc.. We sincerely hope to establish good and long-term business relationship with your esteemed company.

Image:

Hot Rolled Steel Coil-SAE1006 in Good Quality in CNBM

FAQ

1.What's your MOQ?
25MT, it is for one container.
2.Do you have QC teams?
 Yeah, sure, our QC team is very important, they will keep the quality control for our products.
3. What's your normal delivery time?
Our delivery time about 10-20days for standard sizes, if you have other requirements like hardness  and width ,it is about 20-40days. But don't worry ,we also try our best for the delivery time ,because time longer and our cost is higher
.

Q:Myself, iam Working In a Steel Fabrication Company. I completed my Engineering in 2006 and immediately recruited in this company in Oman. My company is Steel Fabrication company .So as i am new to this field, i just need some basic knowledge regarding this Steel Fabrication.Waiting for ur early reply.
Steel fabrication involves the joining together of different types and sizes of steel members e.g when you are constructing a truss. This will include welding or bolting together those members as specificified on engineering drawings though sometimes you have to design/provide a suitable connection yourself. You have to ensure that all connections are adequate/ will not fail in service. You will also have to produce steel fabrication drawings showing various details and these you will send to the design engineer for his approval before you commence the actual fabrication.
Q:I have two theories, which one's correct?My book says that steel is made up of 98% iron and 2% carbon.98% of iron's molar mass (55.85 g/mol) is 54.733.2% of carbon's molar mass (12.01 g/mol) is .2402.If you add them up that gives you that steel has a molar mass of 54.97 g/mol.However, steel's chemical formula is Fe(3)CThat would make it's molar mass 179.56 g/mol.( Because 3(55.85) + 12.01 = 179.56 )Which one is correct?
Molar Mass Steel
Q:So i downloaded Broken Steel DLC for Fallout 3 for the 360. My guy is on the level where you have to activate the purifier and when i beat it. It was the normal ending that brought me back to the main menu. My friend said you have to find some guy to talk to but i don't think thats it. Please Help. P.S. i never got and conformation in-game about the download but its under the download sub menu at the main menu.
after you've downloaded broken steel, while playing in game you should get a message saying, broken steel loaded, then you can make your way to the purifier and finish of the col. and activate it, after-wards you will have to sit through the end movie, which I felt was longer than the original, then the broken steel part will start, which I wont ruin. If your still having problems, go into your DLC and delete broken steel, and re-install it.
Q:I'm a big fan of stainless steel and sterling silver, but not of the humidity of the country I'm in. Therefore I sweat more. Gross, I know. I'm buying a necklace chain for my ring.So does sweat contribute to tarnishing of silver and steel? The real kind?
steel shouldn't really tarnish, it rusts and moisture increases that. Silver tarnishes when exposed to air and sulfur. Moisture increases the process a bit, but it happens anyway. Sweat is not gross, it's a necessary function of your body, otherwise you would die. A lot of sports people wear jewelry and they sweat a lot. If you wear the jewelry all the time, that will prevent the tarnish a bit. If you take it off, clean it (water and dish washing liquid), dry it and put it in a zip lock back to keep it away from air and moisture. In the end, cleaning the jewelry is quick and easy so don't worry about it.
Q:i am working in a firm that deals with steels.. so it is necessary for me to understand the chemistry of the steels from their names so that i need not memorize all the grades with their metallury.. where can i find information about this nomenclature ? please help
For steels with a four number code like 1020, 4140 ect the first two digits are the alloying information. I think you need to memorise those. 10 steels are plain carbon steel with no alloying. 41 steels are chrome-molly. The third and forth digits are the carbon content. 1020 is 0.2% Carbon, 4140 is 0.4% carbon. I don't know if there is a system to stainless steels.
Q:No. Not Stainless steel, I mean STEEL.Not a specific type, but STEEL.Thanks. xo
Scott, there are 3 types of materials: elements, compounds, and mixtures. Compounds are covalently bonded elements. Compounds and elements are both considered 'pure' substances. Mixtures are not bonded in any fashion. So a steel mixture can have varying amounts of iron, carbon, silica,molybdenum, etc., giving the steel the desired properties (strength, rigidity, rust resistance, etc.).
Q:is stainless steel a good steel for sensitive skin? or does it have to be surgical or sterling silver?
idk about sensitive skin but i have stainless steal in i think right now. im sure any are good for a healed belly piercing, if it hasnt been 3 monthes yet then id stick with a surgical
Q:i know that steel helmets werent meant to stop bullets, but i was wondering do they have an value whatsoever for stopping bullets, or is that just yet another thing that hollywood made up(like the omaha beach scene in saving private rian)
Steel helmets were made to stop shrapnel; steel fragments from artillery bursts. They were never meant to stop bullets and most modern rifle rounds will penetrate a steel helmet with ease. The US went to Kevlar helmets for lighter weight and better ballistic protection. Some helmets will deflect handgun rounds. Over half of combat injuries were caused by artillery, so the thinking was to reduce head injuries from shrapnel.
Q:All of my friends say that if a car made of mostly carbon fiber would crash into a full steel car, or vice versa, the steel car would be DESTROYED and the carbon fiber would drive away, if not, easily repairable.
Depends on the design/construction.
Q:Do any tour players use steel shafted woods? And are there any real advantages to having steel shafted woods? I have only played with one person to use steel shafted woods, he tells me thats because he cant hit it straight with graphite, however he is a very short hitter.
I'd be very surprised if there are any tour players still using steel shafts on their woods (I did actually see Tiger with a steel shaft on a driver during a clinic in 2002). Top end graphite shafts have gotten so much better there's just no reason for pros not to use them anymore. That being said, I use a 45 True Temper stiff steel shaft in my driver (Cobra X-speed, 9.5*). Graphite is longer than steel, but the distance I've lost is minimal (maybe 10 yards and I still put it out there 250+ consistently). The extra weight has actually helped me stay in control which has improved my overall driving considerably, and the very low torque in a steel shaft has paid off huge in accuracy. You're paying minimum $60 (or more) for a graphite shaft with a similar torque rating to any steel shaft. I hit easily twice as many fairways since the switch. I've even switched out my other fairway woods too, the feel and control are so much nicer. I've considered going with a 46 on the driver to try to regain some of the distance, and at $7 per shaft I can actually just go do that whenever I want. Don't get me wrong, if I were playing for money or flirting with par I'd invest in good quality graphite stuff no question, but it doesn't make sense to me right now. I'd recommend to anyone looking for more consistency out of their woods to take $20 to your golf shop and try it out. It's a lot cheaper than the alternatives.

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